The ultimate guide to black diamonds

18th July 2025

Enigmatic, edgy and full of mystery, black diamonds are soaring in popularity. Black diamonds make a symbolic choice for your engagement ring – just ask Matty Healy, the lead singer of The 1975, who proposed to fiancée Gabbriette Bechtel with a black diamond ring in 2024. And who can forget Mr Big popping the question to Carrie Bradshaw at the end of Sex and the City 2 with a 5-carat black diamond engagement ring?

Every bit as precious as their colorless counterparts, black diamonds are increasingly lending their unique beauty to distinctive black diamond jewelry. Read on to discover how black diamonds are formed, the characteristics to look for and how to style these captivating gemstones for any occasion.

What are black diamonds?

Black diamonds are just as real as white ones, and share the same chemical composition – both are essentially made up of carbon. Their black color comes from inclusions and impurities such as graphite in the stone.

Some black diamonds are formed naturally. However, most of the black diamonds used in modern jewelry have been heat treated to enhance their color. You’ll also find lab grown black diamonds that have been created in a laboratory as opposed to being mined from the Earth.

Diamonds are the hardest natural substance on the planet, rating 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness, and black diamonds are no exception. Known for their durability, they’re often used in industry, for example, in cutting tools. It’s worth noting, though, that they are full of tiny fractures, so they may be more vulnerable than white diamonds if they’re bumped or knocked.

When it comes to fine jewelry, the world is just waking up to the appeal of black diamond earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Rihanna are just a few of the celebrities who’ve rocked black diamond jewelry on the red carpet and in their music videos, while Justin Bieber has been spotted in black diamond stud earrings. These dramatic gemstones are now appearing in some of the most sought-after modern jewelry sets.

How are black diamonds formed?

Just like other colors of diamond, natural black diamonds are formed over billions of years deep inside the Earth, under intense pressure and extremely high temperatures. However, while white diamonds are single crystals, black diamonds have a different structure: they’re polycrystalline, which means that they’re made of many different crystals stuck together.

Some scientists have proposed that black diamonds actually originated in outer space and were formed in dying stars, or that they were created by the impact of a meteorite falling to Earth. These romantic theories only add to their intrigue.

Whether they were formed on this planet or came from a faraway star, black diamonds owe their distinctive hue to dark-colored inclusions – minerals such as graphite, pyrite or hematite inside the stone. They also tend to have a large number of fractures that can become stained or graphitised, contributing to the overall color.

Naturally occurring black diamonds are very rare, and most of the black diamonds on the market today have been treated to create the desired shade of black. These diamonds often begin as colorless or near colorless (they may even appear grey) and contain lots of inclusions and fractures. Techniques used to achieve a black opaque effect include high pressure/high temperature (HPHT) and radiation treatments.

Of course, lab grown black diamonds can also be created in the laboratory using production methods that replicate the natural conditions behind their formation.

Black diamonds vs white diamonds: Key differences

While black and white (or colorless) diamonds share the same chemical composition, there are a few key differences between them.

One thing you’ll notice immediately is their sparkle – or lack of it. While white diamonds reflect light, black diamonds absorb it. So you can’t expect the brilliance and sparkle of a traditional colorless diamond. Instead, black diamonds have a polished surface and a unique luster; in fact, they can appear almost metallic.

There are some differences when it comes to the symbolism too. White diamonds are traditionally associated with purity, innocence, love and commitment – all qualities that contribute to their enduring appeal in engagement rings. Black diamonds, on the other hand, are altogether more mysterious and even rebellious in nature.

Natural black diamonds are extremely rare and this is reflected in the price. Most black diamonds, however, have been treated. These diamonds are generally more affordable than white diamonds, mainly because they have a large number of inclusions and fractures. Their relative popularity may also play a part: while black diamonds are gaining the approval of the style set, white diamonds are still enduringly sought after.

What do black diamonds symbolize?

Were they formed in the Earth or by a dying star? With a mystery at their heart, black diamonds have an intriguing quality – one that’s reinforced by the legend surrounding the famous Black Orlov diamond. This 67.50-carat cushion cut diamond (cut from a 195-carat stone) is said to have been stolen by a monk in 19th-century India. As a result, it’s believed to come with a curse.

Black is also associated with inner strength and the resilience to make it through tough times. A black diamond engagement ring is a meaningful choice for couples who have faced adversity together and found strength in each other.

From a style perspective, black has been the color of individuality and rebellion since the Beat Movement of the 1950s. This makes black diamonds a popular choice for alternative engagement rings – a bold and unconventional choice for couples looking to take a non-traditional approach.

How to buy a black diamond

Inspired to make a statement with black diamond jewelry or perhaps even a black diamond eternity ring or engagement ring? Here’s what you need to know…

Natural vs treated vs lab created

Trying to decide between natural, treated and lab created black diamonds? Each one has its pros and cons. In terms of cost, lab grown diamonds are the most affordable, while natural black diamonds command the highest prices due to their rarity. In fact, you won’t often see natural black diamonds in jewelry stores; most natural black diamonds have been treated to enhance the color. While producing diamonds in the lab does leave an environmental footprint, lab grown diamonds are considered to be more sustainable than natural ones, no matter their color.

What to look for: Cut, carat & clarity

Black diamonds are assessed differently from other diamonds. Clarity, for example, isn’t taken into account since black diamonds are opaque and contain so many inclusions. These inclusions make them brittle and more challenging to cut, so it takes an expert hand to cut and polish a black diamond so that it looks its best. When it comes to carat, the higher the carat weight, the greater the value. Because black diamonds have a higher density, they can look slightly smaller than other diamonds of the same carat weight.

There is only one color grade of black diamond: ‘fancy black’. What to look for? The most desirable black diamonds are a deep, rich color with a uniform appearance.

Certification & trustworthy retailers

Because black diamonds aren’t graded according to clarity and color, you won’t find all 4Cs on their certification. However, it’s still important to shop with a retailer that you trust, and that sources its diamonds from reputable dealers. Your black diamond jewelry should come with a certificate detailing its carat weight, how it was produced (natural or lab grown) and whether it has been treated.

Price expectations

When you’re shopping for colorless diamonds, maximizing your budget is all about the interplay between the 4Cs. Black diamonds are much more straightforward, with carat weight likely to be the deciding factor. The style can also play a part: a halo of smaller diamonds will make your hero black diamond look bigger, either on a black diamond pendant or at the centre of a black diamond engagement ring.

Styling black diamonds

Inspired to embrace the drama of black diamond jewelry? An intriguing choice for both everyday wear and special occasions, a black diamond necklace or earrings makes a style statement with just the right amount of edge.

Simple solitaire pendants and black diamond studs worn solo will add a chic touch to work or weekend outfits, or stack them up with the other pieces in your collection to embrace your inner goth.

Like all our jewelry, our black diamond pieces are available in your choice of precious metal. We think these dark-colored diamonds look particularly appealing set against white gold, rose gold or platinum, and you can dial it up by framing them with small white diamond side stones for even more of a contrast.

Final thoughts

Deep and dramatic, it’s no wonder that black diamonds are finding their way into 21st-century jewelry. Just as ‘real’ as traditional white diamonds, these gemstones have a rebellious quality that gives them a unique appeal. Whether you’re looking for an engagement ring with a difference, a black diamond men’s eternity ring or a chic black diamond necklace to wear every day, our collection at Austen & Blake has you covered. Discover our collection of black diamond engagement rings now.

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